This morning Gucci released their latest campaign, a film promoting their AW22 collection, directed by Mert & Marcus and artistically directed by Christopher Simmonds. When the clothes first appeared on the runway in February, the collection was titled Exquisite Gucci, inspired by the surrealist parlor game Cadavre Exquis (known to us Brits as consequences), mirrored in today’s campaign with dismembered reinterpretations of Stanley Kubrick’s best works.
The brand’s Creative Director, Alessandro Michele, has masterfully recreated scenes from the legendary film director’s work and assembled a strong team. Gideon Ponte is the acclaimed production and set designer who has worked on films such as buffalo 66 and american psychowhile the Gucci film features exact costume replicas of longtime Kubrick collaborator Milena Canonero alongside Charlotte Walter.
“I intended to place the collection in Kubrick’s iconic scenes, where my clothes exist organically in his world but at the same time feel completely alien – it’s my homage to cinema and one of its savviest maestros,” Michele told Vogue.
Since the release of his first film 2001: A Space Odyssey As early as 1968, Stanley Kubrick’s impact on culture was boundless. From music to fashion and art to interiors, admiration for the director’s work spans generations and continents.
While Alessandro Michele may be the youngest fashion designer to draw from Kubrick’s world, he was far from the first. For decades, designers have used Stanley Kubrick as a reference point for fashion collections, set designs and runway soundtracks. Below we list some of the most important moments when fashion paid homage to Kubrick.
Alexander McQueen, “The Overlook” ready-to-wear AW99
When Alexander McQueen built his AW99 collection The glow It wasn’t the first time the designer made references to horror. Whether it was stories from Jack the Ripper, vampire cult film The hunger, the disturbing images of Joel-Peter Witkin or the real horrors of war in the 18th century; McQueen loved to foreground the macabre.
For this particular collection (named after The Shinings abandoned ‘Overlook’ Hotel), McQueen transformed the runway into the snowy maze seen in the film’s finale. Models skating in a giant Plexiglas box recreating a Victorian snow globe.
McQueen also referenced Kubrick on his SS07 show Sarabande (after which his foundation is named). As well as Barry Lyndon (1975)the collection notes also listed Goya and the Marchesa Casati as references.
Jean Paul Gaultier & Madonna, Blonde Ambition Tour, 1990
Of course, when we think of Jean Paul Gaultier’s (now iconic) costumes for Madonna’s Blonde Ambition Tour in 1990, the first thing that comes to mind is the cone bra. What we quickly forget is that Gaultier’s point of reference in combination with suspenders, bowler hat and cane was undoubtedly A Clockwork Orange (1972).
Furthermore, this summer Gaultier has declared war on Alessandro Michele as a cinephile of the fashion world; to put together an exhibition based on the films that have made his life and career most influential. Cinema and Fashion took place at the CaixaForum in Madrid and presented a reinterpretation of the infamous bowler hat and overalls. With a JPG/Madonna twist, of course.
Moschino, Ready-to-wear AW22
During last season’s Milan Fashion Week, Jeremy Scott turned his Moschino show into a Kubrick scene, referencing the director’s earliest film 2001: A Space Odyssey (1968). The set was a recreation of what Kubrick called “the French provincial hotel room”, while the clothing was a mix of household items – lamps, vases, trays, clocks. Described by Scott backstage as: “like being in a cage in space”.
Unexpectedly, the original costume designer for the 1968 film was Hardy Amies, widely known for his classic tailoring and Queen Elizabeth II’s favorite designer.
Louis Vuitton ready-to-wear AW20
Under Creative Director Nicholas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton’s closing show of Paris Fashion Week in 2020 (just as the world was about to enter another sci-fi horror: Covid) was an ode to the work of Stanley Kubrick. Milena Canonero was brought in (as with Gucci today) to collaborate with Ghesquière on the collection, the pair worked together to create clothing with a futuristic flair not dissimilar to the dystopia of A Clockwork Orange (1972).
CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC ready-to-wear SS18
Raf Simons’ time at Calvin Klein may have been brief, but it was certainly beautiful. Back in 2017, Simons paid tribute to his love of American cinema for his SS18 show. The clothing went beyond Kubrick and referenced people like carrie and Simple rider. However, the set (featuring an installation by longtime collaborator Sterling Ruby) nodded The glowAxes included.